A doorbell circuit for two or more doors will have a separate contact on the chimes for each button included. At the chimes, one wire from each button is spliced to the output wire on the transformer. The second wire is connected to one of the contact screws on the chimes.
This circuit breaker wiring diagram illustrates installing a 30 amp circuit breaker for a 240 volt circuit. The 10/3 cable for this circuit has 3 conductors and no ground. A 30 amp circuit like this is usually found in water heater circuits and older installations for clothes dryers and kitchen ranges. For a new installation of a kitchen range, use the diagram below for a 50amp circuit.
A special isolated-ground receptacle is require for this circuit and can be identified by the orange color and a small triangle imprinted on the face. When connecting the wires, the isolated ground wire (the red wire pictured here) is marked with green tape or paint on each end and connected to the grounding bar in the service panel, and to the grounding terminal on the receptacle.
These sockets have two terminals, one for the hot wire and one for the neutral. A third contact may be present but is not used for this circuit. This diagram illustrates wiring for a standard, one setting lamp. This socket has two terminals, the brass for hot and the silver for the neutral wire.
This arrangement is used for computers and sensitive A/V equipment such as a home theater, to eliminate noise interference in the audio and video output that can be caused by the grounding wires throughout a dwelling’s electrical system.
Another, more permanent, repair for an old doorbell circuit is to use a small ac adapter in place of the battery. Most people will have an AC adapter left after an old radio or similar device has long since died. Look for an output of 10 to 16 volts printed on the side of the adapter casing. Current ratings will typically be very low from these adapters, around 500mA, making them perfect to power the doorbell circuit. All that is needed is a conveniently located receptacle to plug the adapter in.
This diagram is similar to the one above, but the switch comes before the new light in the circuit. New cable is run from the receptacle to the new switch location and from there to the light location. The switch may also be added in the the same box with the receptacle as in the diagrams at this link, where the two are installed in a double-gang electrical box.
This is an updated diagram for the same circuit. Here the source neutral, known as a grounded neutral, is run through to the switch box where it can be used to power switches that require a neutral connection. A neutral connection like this is now required in most new switch boxes as of the code changes in 2011.