This diagram illustrates some of the most common circuits found in a typical 200 amp circuit breaker box. The breakers are installed in a service panel so that contact is made with one of two hot bus bars that run down the middle of the box. The hot wire for a circuit is connected to the breaker by a set screw on the base.
This page contains diagrams to add a new electrical outlet to an existing circuit. Arrangements are included to use an existing receptacle circuit or lights and switch circuits as the source for a new wall outlet.
This page contains wiring diagrams for adding a new light fixture using an existing receptacle as the source. Diagrams include adding a light from a switched receptacle and tapping an always-hot outlet. Different wiring arrangements are included to allow for either the light or the switch to come first in the circuit.
The battery is the weakest link here and should be the first place to look for trouble. The battery can be replaced with a large flashlight-type dry cell rated at 12 to 16 volts and if the wires are still intact and the contacts clean, the doorbell should come back to life.
This wiring diagram illustrates installing a 15 amp circuit breaker for a 120 volt circuit. The 14/2 awg cable for this circuit includes 2 conductors and 1 ground. A 15 amp circuit is usually used for wall receptacle outlets and light fixtures.
This circuit breaker wiring diagram illustrates installing a 30 amp circuit breaker for a 240 volt circuit. The 10/3 cable for this circuit has 3 conductors and no ground. A 30 amp circuit like this is usually found in water heater circuits and older installations for clothes dryers and kitchen ranges. For a new installation of a kitchen range, use the diagram below for a 50amp circuit.
This drawing illustrates the wiring for a split receptacle controlled by a switch. The tab connecting the hot terminals on the receptacle is removed and the source hot is connected to the bottom half. The source neutral is connected to one of the neutral terminals on the receptacle.
The source neutral wire on the receptacle is removed and spliced to the white running to the switch, and to a pigtail back to the receptacle neutral. At the switch, the neutral wire is needed to power some dimmer switches and is now required in most switch boxes.